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First off all, if you have some good tricks or tips, please send them to me
( "contact" link ), I will put them here so
everyone can help everyone, Thank you!

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13/10/2015 -
I find on a page motorcyclewebreport.com/ some very interessting personal thoughts about advantages and disadvantages and I agree with the most of them:

Djebel has 5 very important advantages and 2 disadvantages:

• 17 liter tank allows to pass (even on by awful road) 400 km without refueling.
  The limiting charge is 4 L on 100 km. (the roomiest capacious tank from all 250s)
• The huge headlight with a protective ski lift will allow riding on a wood even at night.
  The complete set for spending the night will be located on a luggage carrier.
• The rear suspension has the built in drive-type oil cup for forcing i.e. simple service
  without distribution of a suspension. By the way on the same XR you will have at
  once to assort and grease a suspension after good trip in marsh.
• Suzuki is the company with a sports bias in each model and it apply to our patient too.
  The engine cheerfully twists on tops, partly reminding jumping motorcycles, and it is
  supplied by oil radiator, recondite behind a protective cradle. The working surface
  of the cylinder is covered. You have to keep up for air and the motor passes very long.
• Main advantage is that you will not remain without spare parts: since 2000 this model
  goes on export to America under name DRZ-250. [Accelerator] on pads and to
  brake disks approaches from DRs different years of release.

 Now about disadvantages:

• The characteristic of the motor has a small failure from bottoms that forces to twist convulsively
  gas instead of to go easy to a tightness on idler wheels (it's important for the some parts of impassibility).
  It is treated: a forward asterisk we put on 13 indents, back on 46-49 ones and Suzuki Djebel will lift a
  fore wheel in air on 1 and 2 from gas without coupling.
• The Back mono-shock-absorber though also folding, but Suzuki does not sell component for repair.
  There are 2 outputs: to search some who can do it for you or to buy new.

1. If you are looking for parts 

for the Suzuki Djebel 250 xc and you dont find them, you can search for parts for the Suzuki drz 250 Bike. Its almost similar (except of   the outside of the bike), Suzuki sell it like the DRZ especially at the American area, so its easy to find parts for example at ebay or other sites. I have some good links for parts at the "Links" area.



2.   How to set Djebel DR250 XC digital clock/trip

  
With each press of the MODE TRIP button, the display changes between tripmeter A,
tripmeter B, and the odometer (total miles). The cursor/underline indicates that the
setting can be changed.

With each press of the MODE TIME button, the display changes between the clock,
the stopwatch and the Timer.

NOTE:
Do not press more than one button at a time.

Tripmeter:

Press TRIP to change between A & B

Press TIME/trip to change from addition subtraction mode. The plus/minus will scroll
through the numbers.

Press the SET TRIP button to reset the selected tripmeter.

CLOCK

Hold down the MODE TIME button for 3 seconds. The setting that is flashing can
be changed (Use the time button to switch). Use the plus/minus button to set.

Press the TIME button to return to normal display.

TIMER

Press TIME button. The setting that is flashing can be changed. Use the TIME/TRIP
button to change from hrs-min-sec. Use plus/minus to set the time that will countdown
from. Finish entering settings and press TRIP. Use the TIME/TRIP button start/stop.
Hold the TIME/TRIP button for 3 seconds to reset to zero.



3.  Dashplate Diagram from the very good Russian site  http://djebel-club.ru/








4.  Tips for good working electronics :

     Its good to put some electronic cleaner spray every 3-4 months to keep the electronical parts clean and so they work well
     without problems. Especialy in the   area of the indicator lights and the buttons.



5.  Motorcycle tire tips especially for Suzuki Djebel 250 GPS / XC 1996 on tires  ( from http://motorbiketyre.com ) :

• Scuff 'Em Up: Optimal grip is obtained only after the tread surface has been ridden on, so go into those first few twisties with a bit of caution. The suggested break-in distance is usually 100 or so miles. After that, check the tire's pressure again!

 
• When oil is changed, it’s a good idea to check tire pressure and inflate to at least recommended manufacturer suggested pressure or higher so the tires run cooler and have less rolling resistance. This will result in better fuel economy and higher mileage for your tires. It also helps avoid irregular tread wear on the tires.

 
• When inspecting your tires check the tread wear indicators (TWI), which are noted by the TWI (some tires may display logos etc in place of TWI) marking located on the tire sidewall. Look towards the center of the tire to locate the actual tire wear bar which will be located in the tread groove itself, as a raised bar. When the tire is worn to this indicator it is time for a new tire. We have actual samples of worn tires to show you the amount of skin left between you and the road so to say. It is scary. The remaining amount of rubber is actually less than is apparent from the outside.

 
• Motorcycle tires work in much more brutal environment then car tires. Because of many factors such as load carried, horsepower and torque produced, and this being applied to a contact surface that is very small by comparison, one can understand why the tires are not only expensive but also work in a much more demanding environment. Therefore keeping the tire pressure correct and routine tire inspection is critical.

 
• It is good idea to attend one of our tech sessions to learn how to plug the tires with a plug kit if that nasty nail has found its way into the tire carcass. That way if it does occur this temporary repair can be quickly accomplished on the roadside.